10 December 2017 Coast Track, Sydney, Australia
Euphoria filled Charlie Brown as the cold water trickled through his matted hair and down his face. The relief was beyond words. But it was short-lived.
Charlie Brown took in his surroundings. The sky glowed the most stunning shade of light blue. Not a cloud disturbed its perfect complexion. On one side, the Great Ocean spread out. Its rendezvous with the great blue yonder, an unfathomable distance away. On the other side, rolling hills. Sparse green vegetation marred the rocky landscape. Barren. Nothing moved. Anything that survived here was tough. Even the shrubs were a drab, washed-out green. Almost as if they were saving their energy for things more important than the colour of their leaves.
The Coast Track runs along the coast from Bundeena to Otford
The sun ruled supreme. Everything wilted under its ferocious glare. The rocks glowed white-hot, threatening to explode at any moment. Not a gust of wind, not even the hint of a breeze dared to disturb the uncompromising heat.
Charlie Brown had been travelling since early morning. It was now only midday. There were still several hours till sun down, by when he hoped to reach his stop for the night. Hoisting his two stone pack onto his shoulders, he soldiered on.
Aside from the continuous thirst, hunger was now beginning to creep into Charlie Brown’s consciousness. Keeping his eyes peeled for a shady spot to have lunch, Charlie Brown crested the hill.
Marley beach is one of the largest beaches in Sydney with its dunes stretching out over 130,000 square metres
The white sands extended for miles inland. Further than any beach Charlie Brown had ever laid eyes upon. The intense sunlight made staring at it impossible. Keeping his eyes on the ground before him, Charlie Brown made his way onto the beach.
Something caught his eye to his left. The cliff face overlooking the beach had caved inwards creating a large dent in the rock. Ample space for someone to escape the swelter. Ample space for lunch!
A lunch of chilli jam sandwiches, tuna, crackers and chocolate soon languished in the depths of Charlie Brown’s stomach. Hunger sated, Charlie Brown wasted no time in clearing up and heading out. He didn’t want to get too comfortable before he reached his camp for the night.
The geography had been much the same throughout the day. Limestone, sand, and thorny vegetation dominated the landscape. At times, the shrubs hugged the track and towered over Charlie Brown, offering welcome relief from the heat. Little moved, apart from the never-ending swell of the Great Ocean, tirelessly pounding against the rocky shore. Well camouflaged Jacky dragons and other spiny lizards basked on the rocks, confident of evading Charlie Brown’s gaze. Little wattlebirds called out from the tops of the thorns before darting into the impenetrable bush. They too unable to stand the heat for long.
Charlie Brown took another swig of water. This mountain had been particularly steep. The summit was just a few feet away. Wondering what the view would be like, he trudged on. A stiff breeze greeted Charlie Brown as he crested the peak.
Garie beach lies below. A popular surfing beach, it is one 11 beaches within the Royal National Park
All thoughts of tiredness vanished. Deep green flora draped over coastal mountains, stretching out as far as the eye could see. Innumerable shades of blue dyed the Great Ocean, which appeared to lay still as if painted. The great whitecaps breaking against the golden sand the only giveaway of its motion. What’s more, Charlie Brown could see the day’s destination in the blurry distance. With a sudden infusion of energy Charlie Brown rushed down the mountain side.
The beach below itself was a contrast of terrain. White sand soon gave way to slippery, moss-covered stones and deceivingly innocent rock shelves, as another headland loomed in the distance.
The corridor leading from Garie beach to Little Garie beach
Little Garie beach and the final headland before the campground lie ahead
An arduous climb later, Charlie Brown was at the summit of the headland looking down at the campground on the opposite side. A glance at the vista behind him, and any and all inklings of fatigue evaporated.
Garie beach in the distance, Little Garie beach directly below. This is the final headland before North Era campground
Strong gusts of wind buffeted the slopes. The grass swaying in a wild, green imitation of the Great Ocean far below it. A large king brown snake slithered across the track. Its sinuous, golden brown body effortlessly vanishing into the thick vegetation. Destination within touching distance, Charlie Brown hurried down the slope.
Soon enough, Charlie Brown was settled into his mobile home. Steep hills on three sides with the sea guarding the other, created a bowl within which the camp lay. Blasts of wind howled down the slopes like a pack of wolves, threatening to blow Charlie Brown’s mobile home off its hinges.
Craving coffee, Charlie Brown put the stove on.
Evening at North Era campground
With the sun ending its torturous reign for the day, the air began to cool. Skinks, eager to catch the last rays, darted out of the grass. Ravens took to the air in search of a night’s roost, their ebony plumage in stark juxtaposition with the pale sky. The contents of a giant cauldron poured out overhead as rose and ochre gradually tainted sky blue. An eerie quiet enveloped the hill sides. Only the gentle lap-lap of the waves from beyond the dunes disturbed the silence. Drawn to it like a moth to flame, Charlie Brown picked up his mug and headed out towards the sea.
North Era beach
A beautiful beach spread out before Charlie Brown. The Great Ocean incessantly grasped at the sand. Nothing else moved. The sea had now completed swallowed the sun. Only flailing orange arms on the horizon hinted towards its previous existence. The hauntingly beautiful sound of the waves lulled the world into a false sense of security while sea inched its way inland. Moss covered rocks stood motionless, awaiting the sea’s cold embrace. They had watched this drama unfold countless times. It would be no different tonight.
Turning his back on the evocative scene, Charlie Brown headed back, and to bed.
Camera & lens: Nikon D3400 & 18-55 f/3.5-5.6G, 55-300 f4.5-5.6G
Continue the adventure here.
The Adventures of Charlie Brown 